I plug a Thunderbolt 3 cable to the Caldigit TS3 Plus, this then connects to my 4K LG monitor, Optical audio when required and to the USB-3 Hub where all my USB peripherals are connected. Not wishing to end up with dongle hell and knowing I had a lot of Thunderbolt 2 drives, USB-3 and two monitors to connect I decided to plan it around three core devices.Īll this may look like a ball ache but with some pre-planning I now have 1 connector from my MacBook to everything in my studio. Job Two - Connect External PeripheralsĪ MacBook Pro has 4 Thunderbolt 3/USB-C connections and anyone who uses a modern studio will know that 4 ports is not going to get you very far. That’s all pretty simple BUT you must do it before you format a drive that contains them as in some cases you can’t deauthorize them after the event. It’s pretty easy as it’s a Mac all my personal data is either sitting on the cloud, in Dropbox or my email is in the cloud.Īs already said, all the content is on external drives so there’s not much to lose, one thing to check though is that any machine based licences may need to to be moved back off the machine, Waves is one example, or deauthorized so I don’t run out of machine activations on any particular account. However my studio machine has had some odd moments so I decided to start fresh. When I get a new Mac I normally make a copy of the old machine and port it to the new one, I would do this job using Carbon Copy Cloner to make (as the name suggests) a carbon copy of the other machine. Here’s what I’ve discovered over the last week. I decided to move all my work to the MacBook to see if I ran out of power or had other issues, namely heat and noise. I went ahead and ordered a MacBook Pro (16-inch, 2019), 2.4 GHz 8-Core Intel Core i9 with the idea of replacing my Mac Pro Late 2013 12 Core. So, like many, any solution that adds noise to the equation is off the table for me. It means I also have a machine room, in the form of a cupboard from IKEA that houses all my hard drives, see below. Anyone who has followed me for any time will know that I’m borderline OCD when it comes to noise in the studio, this has meant me replacing fans in an Avid Omni. However, the elephant in the room is fan noise. As I’ve already said, the performance of the new i9 based MacBook Pro is on a par with some desktops, that is of course unless you want to launch the Space Shuttle then you go for the new Mac Pro 7,1. However when I looked at the results of tests on things like the Mac mini for use in the studio it started me wondering if I could rationalise my set-up into one machine, that being one of the powerful MacBook Pro 8 core i9 models at the top of the range? Disc space wasn’t a concern as any media based content has lived on external drives for several years now. I’m sure I’m not the only person who has used this arrangement as a solution that gives me power for my studio work and portability for when I travel. To be honest, though, even Logic Pro X doesn’t really need the extra CPU power when I use it, so I keep Turbo Boost disabled pretty much all the time.Is it possible to run a studio using a MacBook Pro and be noise free? Russ Hughes decided to put it to the test and with a combination of hardware, software and practical solutions he has got some surprising results.įor many years I’ve been running two Macs, a Mac Pro 6,1 Trash Can as my studio machine and a MacBook Pro for my second, portable machine. But I also use it for recording and editing music, which can be more processor-intensive. My MacBook usage is fairly undemanding - mostly writing and reading. I have the pro version of Turbo Boost Switcher running, and it does what it’s meant to do: It keeps the MacBook Pro cool while I use it. I’m used to old desktop Macs and new iPads, so I’m probably overly sensitive to feeling the heat coming out of a computer. For instance, if you know that Photoshop needs all the CPU power it can get, you can tell Turbo Boost Switcher to keep Turbo Boost enabled whenever you use the photo-editing app. You also can tell it to allow Turbo Boost for certain apps. It can disable Turbo Boost only when on battery power, for example, or when the cooling fans spin up to a certain speed. You can set the pro version of the app to enable and disable Turbo Boost based on several rules. Automatic Turbo Boost switching Turbo Boost Switcher’s automation settings.
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